Traversing the Indian railway system, going southward

I hope that everyone enjoyed my last email or post about the Bollywood experience.

I made my way from Mumbai to Aurangabad to visit the Ajatha and Ellora caves. I took a second class seat on the train, which ended up being hassle free, except for the beggars and men selling key chains on the train. The only hassle I encountered was when I got off the train and was immediately approached by rickshaw drivers, who were a bit overly aggressive and circling me. I managed to pull my scarf over my head and walk out of the crowd (avoid crowds, especially if you are a solo female during the late evening or night hours). I made my way down the street to a couple hotels that ended up being a bit precarious and made my way instead to a hotel that had been recommended to me. It was full, but the austere YHA hostel around the corner happened to be open with its 10 pm curfew and all. The hostel ended up being quite secure even if it reminded me a bit of the prison cells one sees on TV.

All of the caves are man made, but some are close to being a thousand years old. Ajantha caves are all Buddhist caves, but were primarily built by Hindu kings. Many of the paintings still remain and tell a great deal about the different kings, beliefs about Buddha and much other important information of the era. I joined a tour for the Ajantha caves since public bus is a bit more tricky and I thought that it would be a good way to meet some other people. The tour from the MDTC Resort was a bit too rushed for my liking and we spent most of the time following around a guide with no idea of what he was talking about. The hour on our own was much better to let the murals and frescoes sink into our memories.

The following day I met up with a friend I had eaten with the previous day at a nearby restaurant. She is also a solo female traveler (I am actually quite surprised by the number of solo women travelers I have met so far). We headed to Ellora on our own, which was incredibly easy and managed to miss the crowds since we headed out at 7 am. The buses run almost constantly, and I think that they even start before dawn. By 1:30 pm we were done and made our way back to town for a much needed siesta, meal and Internet downtime.

Hyderabad

I am presently in Hyderabad (also referred to as Secunderabad) and waiting to see if I will make the evening train to Hospet JN, which happens to be the nearest station to the touristy and legendary Hampi in Karnakata, India. There really isn't much to see in Hyderabad other than the wonderful bazaars, Charminar, museums and food.

The museums just happen to be closed today (Friday, due to religious significance) and I had a less than favorable experience in the Nehru Tribal Museum. The museum itself was fine and informative, but the young man who followed me the entire time and proceeded to harass me (even when I asked him to not follow me around) was not. I ended up yelling at him and a tour guide and security guard stepped in and kicked him out. I guess one thing I don't understand is that the very few men who do cause problems here do not treat their own women like that, and I don't understand how it is somehow more acceptable when directed towards foreign women. The museum staff was embarrassed and horrified at his behaviour. I am dressed very conservatively, even in a relatively benign kurti (tunic top and baggy cotton pants with a scarf). But overall, I have to say I am quite surprised at how safe traveling around India is, especially since I had hear so many stories and warnings from everyone. My guard is still up, but I don't feel endangered.

I have not seen too many foreigners in this city, due to the untouristy nature of the city. The city is fairly wealthy with the technology industry supplementing plenty of high paying jobs. Rickshaw drivers have been quite accommodating in using the meter and providing quasi-fair prices, and the overwhelming majority helpful with directions and the like. But I am ready to head to the supposedly beautiful and serene Hampi for some sightseeing, bouldering, yoga, some more good food, and much needed fresh air.

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